Audio install pics. Front has Adire Koda components and rear has Adire Extremis. The rear speakers were specifically chosen to clear the Mazdaspeed strut tower bar. Speakers are powered by a Phoenix Gold Xenon 200.4 amplifier and covered with custom made speaker grills. Deck is an Alpine CDA-9827, which was the highest-end Alpine without a flip down face to insert CD's(I hate those!). I machined a face plate to house the deck, a Defi multi-gauge display, and an Innovate LM-1 wideband display.

Since I will be using the head of a 2000 Miata, which has more angled intake ports for better flow, I had to modify the flange of the GTR intake manifold to work. Basically, all the bolt holes had to be offset down about 9mm. For the top holes, the original ones were welded shut and re-drilled. For the bottom holes, the 'ears' were cut off and a new bar welded in place and drilled.

Too much spare time! I had a custom vinyl mask made and painted this on using engine enamel. It is 100% paint. Started with a black rectangle. Put on the negative mask and painted in the letters and lines. And finally, I clear coated the entire logo.

Custom adapter plate CNC'ed to accept GM coils for a coil-on-plug (COP) setup. Will most likely use a M&W Pro-14 CDI unit.
Hard to tell in this picture, but the 2000 Miata head only has one of the two bolt holes required to securely attach the Protege distributor. I took the 'ear' off a junk head and welded it where it is supposed to go. But, since I will most likely be using the CAS from the Miata, which only uses one bolt hole, this was for nothing.
Picture of the bore plate that was used while boring the block for the Wiseco 9:1 pistons.
Custom rear TTL bushings made from cut-down ES 9-9108 universal 4-bar bushings and extra sleeves. Also shown is a 1" Quickor rear sway bar on custom mounts.

Beginning construction on a custom downpipe with an external wastegate (by removing the flapper of the internal wastegate and using separate piping). Hopefully, the wastegate is not too far away (I think it should be OK). I made is as tight as possible to stay as far away from the ground and radiator as possible. Should be ~1" above Darryl's (MazdaRacer) tie bar.

Don't mind the dirty water pipe and head. I am only using them for mock-up.

Update: Last four pics show completed downpipe and how I ported the internal wastegate and part of the housing to fit the 1.875" pipe that goes through the flange.

Hard to see, but I tapped the oil filter base on the block for oil pressure and oil temperature senders. I earlier bought a Greddy sandwich plate, but didn't like using it (it's for sale...). In this location, I'll read the maximum oil temp, right before it goes to the oil cooler.

Enkei RP-F1 in 15x7 with 41mm offset. 9.6lbs of super lightness!

Update: Sold these because they wouldn't work with my diy big brake kit (insides too small). Replaced with 949Racing 6UL 15x7.5 with 34mm offset (12.1lbs). Shod with Hankook RS-2 Z212 225/45 tires.

60-2 trigger wheel mounted on rear of ATI Super Damper. Second picture shows the mounting bracket holding the magnetic sensor for reading the trigger wheel.
In order to fit a nice downpipe, you need to remove the a/c compressor. Since I wanted to keep a/c, I came up with the idea of swapping the locations of the a/c compressor and p/s pump. The p/s pump is much smaller than the a/c compressor and leaves plenty of room for a nice downpipe. Pic #1 shows the two custom mild steel brackets before I gave them a protective coat of paint. The other pics shows them installed. Long story, but I ended up using an aftermarket compressor (Sanden SD-505).
The first pic shows the stock front stabilizer bar bracket. It uses a design with only one bolt. Since I am installing the beefier 1" bar from a ZX2, I decided to use the brackets from the ZX2 as well. Not only does it use two bolts per side, but I could use off-the-shelf ES bushings made for it. You can see where I welded on an extra nut in the first pic. The remaining pics shows the bar and bracket mounted.
To make room for a decent-sized compressor inlet tube, I modified the front motor mount. A 2.5" tube will come in at 45 degrees from the top right, following the shape of the modifed bracket. I reinforced the area I cut off since only 3 out of the 4 bolts are now being used.
I decided to install a Laminova water/oil cooler. So, I replaced the stock oil cooler with a sandwhich plate that has -10AN fittings.

It's getting there...
It's really getting close now...
Did some road tuning today. It still stumbles at idle sometimes, but so far I think it's running pretty good. Don't mind the wiring mess, I'll clean it up later. I also installed a Familia grill and replaced my old beat up front license plate.
The Walbro 255lph fuel pump was sporadically overpowering the stock fpr at idle causing it to be erratic, so I replaced it with an Aeromotive unit. Also, some Miata guys were saying that the stock fpr didn't stay 1:1 beyond 15psi.
Heatshield for air filter.
Just some random exterior shots of the car.
Finally a good dyno session. On the left is the last dyno pull that day making 343whp/318wtq. Boost was ariund 22-23psi. On the right is a ~7mb video of two pulls. I could have had it build up the boost a little sooner, but had it ramp up instead so that it's not such a big shock. Main purpose was to not shock the clutch with a sudden rush of power and cause it to slip. Using the cam gears I could probably shift the curve either left or right, if I ever need to do that... Overall, I am pretty happy.


The G-series transmission is not exactly known to be very strong, so I am doing everything I can (within reason) to strengthen it. One of the complaints I have read about is that there is so much force between the primary and secondary shafts that they get forced apart, resulting in sheared gears, broken cases, etc. The fix is known as the "plate mod" where part of the end of the transmission case, the lip that holds the bearing race in place, is milled off and replaced with a steel plate. I went a step further and not only made a plate, but an entire insert. I have also read that the outer bearing races tend to want to spin. This creates heat and overtime the fit of the bearing shells becomes loose causing the shafts to also loose alignment.

Pic #1: Original.
Pic #2: Close-up of the lip.
Pic #3: After the thickness of the lip is milled off and the bearing race holes enlarged to make room for the insert.
Pic #4: After rounding the two sharp "tips" and holes were tapped to hold the insert.
Pic #5: Bottom view of steel insert.
Pic #6: Top view of the steel insert showing the countersunk bolt holes.
Pic #7: To prevent the outer bearing shells from spinning, I put a quick tack weld on it. The steel insert has the corresponsing groove for it.
Pic #8: Outside view of installed insert.
Pic #9: Inside view of installed insert.

MAY 2008

DIY Front Big Brake Kit. Consists of Wilwood 4-piston calipers and 11.0" rotors. Pics and their filenames should pretty much explain what I did. Rotors and calipers cost ~$780. I had custom brake lines made for ~$60 (not pictured). I used a 1/8"NPT to -3AN straight fitting off the caliper and then a 90° -3AN fitting on one end of the hose and a M10x1.00 Inverted fitting on the other end. The frame end clips in like stock, but there is no fitting in the middle of the hose to clip onto the strut, so you have to be creative with that.

I haven't driven it enough yet to determine whether I need to install an adjustable proportioning valve. Right now, I have Carbotech XP12's in front and XP10's in the rear on Miata 10.9" Sport/big brakes (see below). They seem to have great stopping power, even when cold, but do dust a lot. Worked great driving the 120 miles to Little Talladega and on the 5 laps there before my transmission blew.

MAY 2008

10.9" Miata rear brakes from a 2001-02 with sport brakes or any 2003-05. I used the entire Miata caliper/bracket combo, but all you really need is the Miata bracket to use with the Protege caliper. The Miata's piston is larger at ~34.5mm versus the Protege's ~30mm so it should help even out the bias when having upgraded front brakes. You need to use a spacer (washer) of 3-4mm between the bracket and hub. That's all.

MAY 2008

Transmission blew 5 laps into my second track day at Little Talladega... Had to be towed home 120miles (thank goodness for AAA). Pics should tell the story.

Comparison pics of various Mazda and Kia transmission parts. The area around the secondary bearing has much more reinforcement in the Kia bellhousing. The ring gear is also wider by about 2.5mm (~25mm vs ~22.5mm). It's the same ring gear as comes on the MSP lsd. The Kia also has a wider final drive gear on the secondary shaft (making the shaft actually longer). To make this longer shaft fit, the secondary bearing 'cup' is moved closer towards the clutch. The center cases are the same and I am actually planning on using my plate modded Mazda center case with the Kia bellhousing.


Here are just some random pictures of the 'new' transmission. Welded in a plate on the bellhousing side to hopefully reinforce that weak area around the secondary shaft bearing and also used a different bearing in that spot that has a flanged outer cup for more support. The shifter gate pic shows that small amount that needs to be ground off to clear the arp bolts on the Quaife lsd. The pics of the primary shaft shows how it needs to be modified in order to fit needle bearings for the PAR gears (3rd/4th). The PAR gears also come with double syncros. Also, I had all the stock gears shot-peened.

Then I installed a transmission cooler which required that the stock power steering cooler 'loop' be replaced with something that doesn't take up all that space right behind the bumper. For the feed, I enlarged the drain to 1/2"NPT. It's a little closer to the lower tie bar than I expected and I'll keep an eye on it to make sure that it doesn't touch when the engine moves, etc. It is higher off the ground than the lower tie bar though, which is good. I also made a mini skid plate to protect it from any crap that might hit it. The pump I am using a Tilton differential pump (40-525) and it's noisy since it's a piston type pump and it's quite large. I ended up mounting it in an impossible to access place, inside the fender well.

So, here is the list of mods for this 2nd transmission:
- Reinforced Kia bellhousing
- Plate-modded center case
- 3.85 final drive ratio from an Escort
- PAR straight-cut 3rd (1.31) and 4th (0.96) with double syncros and needle bearings
- Shot-peened stock gears
- Longer 5th (0.717)
- Transmission cooler
- Quaife LSD

Yeah, let's see how long this box lasts...


For some reason, my ES lca bushings were binding really bad (i.e. I could barely move the control arm). They were not like this when I installed them and greasing them didn't help. So, I decided to convert from bushings to spherical bearings. This also negated the need for a traction bar - not that I've ever been to the drag strip, but I plan to in the future. I went with high-quality Aurora PWB-12T teflon-lined bearings and incorporated o-rings to seal them from debris. The shells are made of steel and the spacers of stainless. I made the shells of steel so that I could weld them to the lca, but the fit from my machinist was perfect (tight) that I didn't really need to, but I did anyways with some little tacks. I designed them so that all the parts were 'captured', i.e. the lca can't move back/forth or cause the bearings to push out. I also offset the rear hole so that I could adjust the caster - much like the SuperPro bushings.

JULY 2009

Not having done any mods to the car for about half a year, I couldn't help but figure out what to make next. So, after talking to some guys and discussing how small the plenum of the GTR intake manifold is, I decided to make my own. Here is everything from start to finish. Dyno comparisons to come soon.

To see all the pictures at once enlarged on one page, click here.


Big changes ahead! I sold my 'built' transmission and am swapping to a Toyota E153 from a 2001 Solara V6.

Requires an adapter plate, all four new mounts, new crossmember, 'massaging' the driver side frame rail, and a bunch of other stuff.

That's a picture of the protoype adapter plate cut out of thick cardboard.

Here is the list of parts I have so far:
-E153 transmission from a 2001 Solara V6
-Cable shifter assembly from a 1993 Celica GT-S
-Inner axle stub/intermediate shaft and mechanical speedometer sender from a 1992 MR2 Turbo (non-lsd)
-Front axles from a 1992 Celica All-trac
-TRD clutch-type differential
-ACT sprung 6-puck clutch disc (will reuse the ACT HD pressure plate)

May 2010

Haven't had any time to work on the car in the last few months so not much has been done. Had the mounts/crossmember powder coated black and the adapter plate zinc-plated. Finally spent the last few days mating the engine and transmission and putting it into the engine bay. Everything fits as planned. This was the first time that I actually had the axles installed. Happy to say that all the measuring I did paid off!

I am re-using my old ACT heavy-duty pressure plate with an ACT sprung 6-puck disc.

August 2010

Local gas station started carrying E85 and I am thinking about converting to use it. Reading through different car forums, it seemed about 50/50 on whether Walbro fuel pumps would have an early death with it. Since E85 requires much larger injectors, I went with 1000cc injectors from Injector Dynamics. They like to run at higher pressures so I went with a Bosch 044 fuel pump ('proven' online to be OK with E85 unless you get a fake). The Bosch is designed to run inline, but they do make aftermarket filter adapters to run them in-tank. The problem is that they are much larger than the Walbro units. So, off to the lathe to make a mounting bracket. E85 apparently attacks bare aluminum so I anodized it black. E85 is also supposed to eat rubber, so I switched over to Teflon lines at the fuel rail. The only rubber lines left are at the tank - they seemed to be a pita to replace and I figured any rubber bits would be caught by the fuel filter.

And, yes, the rear seat cushion fits right over the raised cover - no problem.




Engine Modifications:
Wiseco 9:1 +1mm pistons
M-Tuned H-beam rods
2000 Miata head
Fidanza adjustable cam gears
Injector Dynamics 1000cc injectors
Bosch 044 fuel pump in custom mount
Vishnu dual-feed fuel rail plumbed with stainless-braided Teflon fuel lines good for E85
Aeromotive AFPR

Turbo Goodies:
DIY intake manifold with 75mm throttle body
GTR exhaust manifold with four EGT bungs and ceramic coated
VJ-23 with ceramic coated exhaust housing and bypassing internal wastegate
DIY divorced downpipe with external wastegate
DIY 3" stainless exhaust
Tial V44 (because it uses v-band clamps!)
PWR water/air intercooler

Engine Management/Electronics:
Haltech E6X running sequential injection and waste-spark ignition
Customized Miata CAS
Defi gauges
Innovate Motorsports LM-1 wideband O2, LM-3 Auxbox, and TC-4
COP setup using GM cops and CDI unit

Drivetrain Modifications:
Toyota E153 5-speed on custom adapter plate
TRD clutch-type limited-slip differential
Custom engine mounts, crossmember, and core support
ACT 6-puck sprung clutch disc and heavy-duty pressure plate
Stainless-braided clutch line

Suspension Modifications:
Mazdaracer's lower tie bars front/rear
MX-3 control arms and lateral links
DIY spherical bearings in front lower control arms
Superpro bushed 'front' rear lateral link
DIY heim-jointed 'rear' rear lateral link
Hotbits DT2 coilovers
ZX2 1" stabilizer bar on custom mounts front
Quickor 1" stablilizer bar on custom mounts rear
GTX strut tower bar front
Mazdaspeed strut tower bar rear

Custom Wilwood Dynapro calipers on 11.0" DBA rotors front
Miata "big brake" sport suspension calipers and 10.9" rotors rear
Carbotech XP12/XP10 front/rear pads
Techna-Fit braided stainless brake lines rear and custom brake lines front

Radio/Sound: (more pics here)
Custom speaker/grill install
Front: Adire Audio Koda component set 6.5"+tweeter
Rear: Adire Audio Extremis 6.5"
Alpine CDA-9827 head unit in custom housing
Phoenix Gold Xenon 200.4 amplifier

Exterior Modifications:
EDM headlights
GTR grill with Familia emblem
Catz auxilliary driving lamps

949Racing 6UL 15x7.5 34mm offset wheels (12.1lbs each)
Hankook RS2 225/45 tires



You can PM me on ClubProtege if you have any question/comments.